Andrea Mary Marshall’s ‘Elizabeth’ Collection for Fall 2025
Andrea Mary Marshall, a rising star in fashion, presents her latest collection titled ‘Elizabeth’ for Fall 2025. Although the name evokes the famed English monarch, it is more of a stylistic inspiration than a direct homage, showcasing Marshall’s growth as a designer from her previous season’s offerings.
From Fine Arts to Fashion Design
A graduate of Parsons School of Design, Marshall initially carved her niche in fine art, focusing on self-portraiture while working various jobs in the fashion industry. Reflecting on her earlier experiences, she stated, “They were the kind of jobs that I didn’t have to get too attached to; I could just check in and check out.” These roles, although challenging, provided her with extensive knowledge of production, which she later channeled into her work.
In 2021, Marshall established her brand, Salon 1884, in collaboration with Neiman Marcus. The brand’s name pays homage to the 1884 exhibition where John Singer Sargent’s ‘Portrait of Madame X’ made a notable impression, representing Marshall’s commitment to merging art and fashion.
Salon 1884: A Foundation for Growth
Salon 1884 focuses on tailored pieces crafted from exclusive materials, featuring everything from quintessential black dresses to daring designs. Marshall described Salon as “what I would wear, but it is not what comes out of me,” indicating her desire to cultivate a personal style that reflects a broader artistic vision.
To further evolve her craft, she revisited the fundamentals of design, specifically pattern-making. “Making the patterns changed my life, really,” Marshall noted, which laid the groundwork for her eponymous brand, Andrea Mary Marshall.
Dramatic Inspirations in ‘Elizabeth’
Marshall’s latest collection boldly channels the themes associated with Queen Elizabeth I amidst a cultural landscape defined by masculinity. Notably, the collection features striking garments such as dresses that utilize over 30 yards of starched lace and corseted elements. These designs eschew sweetness, much like the formidable monarch herself.
Marshall draws inspiration from Roy Strong’s writings on Queen Elizabeth, emphasizing that the monarch often donned black to symbolize status and masculinity. Key pieces include:
- A draped trench coat made from rain-resistant shaved cotton with intricately cut sleeves showcasing Loro Piana plaid cashmere linings.
- The “Libet dress,” characterized by a strapless silhouette, a fanning Chantilly lace collar, and delicate pearl embellishments.
- The “Izzie” bodice, which nods to Vivienne Westwood, a luminary in British fashion.
Marshall also acknowledged influences from Zandra Rhodes, incorporating modern fastenings and hand-knotted pearls in her designs, reminiscent of Rhodes’s 1977 Conceptual Chic collection.
Distinctive British Elements and Feminine Flair
The collection is rife with British influences, including trench coats, punk aesthetics, and lace, yet thrives on unique interpretations of Teddy Boy style. Standout pieces feature:
- A jacket with ivory satin lapels, embellished with lace from Western-style seams.
- A plaid suit jacket featuring expertly constructed shoulders and a busk front.
The tailored pieces evoke a slightly shrunken fit, contrasting with the more feminine silhouettes of the dresses, which include a custom leopard alpaca fabric inspired by the iconic 1990s look of Kate Moss while simultaneously recalling the style of Queen Elizabeth I.
A Larger-than-Life Vision
Marshall incorporates a sense of myth into her designs. “I used to draw these pictures of Elizabeth where she was half-god and half-Elizabeth, and so I wanted her to have this animalistic quality,” she explained. Her collection serves as an invitation to embrace boldness in the face of societal challenges, embodying both elegance and power.
